Style and sustainability can go hand in hand. This was clearly evident at the latest edition of Berlin Fashion Week, which took place in January 2023.
Carefully handcrafted products, strong research in materials, upcycled vintage or stock dead fabrics and garments reinvented in new styles dominated the Berlin catwalks and will set a trend for F/W 2023/2024.
The SPIN OFF has selected some of the most interesting creations that can make a difference for the fashion of the future.
LML Studio’s modern craftsmanship
A former student at London’s Central Saint Martins College, Lucas Meyer-Leclère was hired by Karl Lagerfeld to design fabrics for Chanel. As head of textile accessories at Jimmy Choo, the French-born designer split his time between London and Milan before launching his own label, LML Studio, in Berlin in 2018.
The brand was born out of a desire to reveal the beauty of craftsmanship hidden in every look. Each look is gender- and size-neutral and made entirely by hand. Couture know-how meets sustainability, as each piece is made from recycled or upcycled materials. For these reasons, LML Studio collections are available only to order or in strictly limited editions.
Damur Huang, a Taiwanese designer who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and La Cambre-Mode in Brussels, launched his own label Damur in Berlin Kreuzberg in 2015. He has also worked for Alexander McQueen and Tim Van Steenberg. Today, he combines his skills, Asian pop culture and Berlin lifestyle in his high-end streetwear brand.
His mission is to create sustainable fashion using upcycled fabrics. Cut-outs are his signature as part of every look, as an homage to freedom and a more transparent expression of one’s sexuality.
Black is colorful
Esther Perbandt founded her fashion and jewelry label in Berlin in 2004. The designer herself describes her looks as genderless, simply characterized by a strong sense of individuality. “Black is colorful” is not just a slogan for Esther Perbandt, but a central design element, as she has been designing exclusively black collections for more than ten years, as this color, interpreted through multiple layers, represents infinity for her.
As a self-confessed opponent of fast fashion, all her collections are made here responsibly and from sustainable materials. Produced in small series, they are only available through the brand’s own online shop and store in Berlin Mitte.
Dennis Chuene founded his eponymous label in 2008. The South African-born designer has a special focus on sustainability, working almost exclusively with recycled and upcycled materials. All his looks are handmade in his Berlin studio.
With a streetwear character and innovative details, Dennis Chuene’s fashion has a mission as it expresses his socio-political commentary on world events. He wants to show grievances, which he weaves into highly detailed, sophisticated and wearable works of art.
The colorful art of Rianna + Nina
This designer duo works out of their studio in Berlin. Each of their looks, be it caftans, coats or robes, is created from carefully selected, colorful and unusually patterned vintage fabrics that are given a second life through special upcycling techniques.
Rianna + Nina
Colors, prints and cultures merge into unique creations that become timeless works of art.