Hermès: Monochrome mode
It all started with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski thinking about hair, from her own fiery red curls to Venetian blondes to black and auburn, before turning Hermès’ latest collection into an autumn symphony.
The relative novelty of the dynamics leads to a delightfully unexpected vision of fashion. That said, it was an overwhelming monochrome event. From the gallery space itself, an all-orange box (it’s not like a collection for Hermès!) to the color matching of every style.
A collection that looks ideal for a long walk in the woods, as well as a lady’s shopping trip.
Vanhee-Cybulski’s best ideas are for the evening – based on 1920s designers like Madame Grès or Madeleine Vionnet, and their fondness for the plissé fabrics and silhouettes of the Greek goddesses. However, all of Nadège’s ideas are made of metallic silk. They were cleverly cut, finished with contrasting silk or marble shoulders, and worn by several Black models, who walked gracefully.
Sometimes, ruffles even mimic the way women twist and pull their hair. Her opening is all sepia, mud, oak, elm, and deep purple; with ribbed cashmere tunics, soft red cashmere scarves, chic knit dresses with Jesuit sleeves or long purple cardigans. The cable even mimics braids – for a nice post-pandemic polish.
Hermès is a house born of saddle-making, featuring several novelty fleeces made to look like wild fur, used in parkas and capes; or a couple of shiny leather shirts and tunics, which are so precisely ironed that they look like models.
It’s all secured by a boot – albeit a great one – a suede thigh-high boot with a pyramid-shaped heel, which will be a bestseller. For best-selling products of the most expensive category is Hermès’ goal. The house’s most recent figures for 2022 show a 29% increase in sales to 11.6 billion euros, a 38% increase in net profit to 3.4 billion euros.
“I wanted to experiment with the complexity and symbolism of a woman’s hair. Something very trivial, but very structured. So I sent my hair to a number of different fabric mills to recreate the yarn complexity in all cashmere,” Vanhee-Cybulski revealed in a chat after the show.
Her overall goal, to reimagine wardrobe stereotypes – is like a quilted coat, but transforms it into a knitwear that can come and wrap around you.
“I like the solidity of monochrome. This collection feels more introspective. But you always want to be wrapped up in the winter. My other opinion on copper, as it is very malleable but very durable,” explains the scarlet-haired designer, who wears her long bow in a black leather jacket, contrasting her pair bright red boots, making her look younger than her actress. . And very unlike her own show.
Hermès will always be old money, but you don’t want money to make you look old.
Elie Saab: Joy in Elie’s Busy Moment
A dramatic change of gears at Elie Saab, with a host of new tailoring tricks and an array of floral sequins, in a show choreographed with inner delight Tokyo Palace.
It was a busy time for Saab’s house. On Monday, Elie will hold a grand festival to launch her new perfume Elixir at La Suite Girafe, Trocadero’s chic rooftop bar with exceptional views of the Eiffel Tower.
At the weekend, Saab flew to Milan to open a new big store on Gesù Street, opposite the Four Seasons Hotel, and down the street from Versace headquarters.
There’s something of Versace in this show, not in the elevation but in the playful black lace selection, glittering glitter and strictly tailored suits.
But most of all, this is like a refreshingly bubbly Saab with a fabulous black puffer top, blazer and Levantine-speckled chiffon cocktail and thigh-high boots. Even his lovely wife Claudine appeared on Instagram in thigh-high boots.
“What did I think when I designed this collection? A beautiful woman,” Saab smiled after being hugged by Olivia Palermo, leading a group of influencers that included Caro Daur and Helena Bordon. Not exactly low-rent women.
But, in contrast to Hermès, Elie prefers to use finances to have a little fun;
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