May 5, 2023
Camille Miceli launched her first collection for Pucci in Capri in April 2022. A year later, on Thursday, May 4, the designer celebrated her one-year anniversary as creative director. of the Italian luxury brand, in which LVMH took full control in June 2021, by staging her first show. On this occasion, Miceli decided to return to Florence, where the label was founded in 1947 by the marquis Emilio PucciChoose from one of Tuscan’s finest sites, the famous Società dei Canottieri Firenze sailing club’s famous assembly hall.
The sun was setting, shining over the arch of the famous Ponte Vecchio, while the river Arno sparkled under a pink sky: Miceli couldn’t have chosen a more evocative setting to make a great impression. Nestled in wicker chairs under giant colorful sunshades emblazoned with Pucci’s fun patterns, some 300 guests, among them American rapper Ice Spice and fellow countryman Saint Jhn, actress Emma Myers and fashion designers Ebony and Jenna Tyson, sipping champagne while they waited. Let the celebration begin.
As usual, Miceli chose to take an unusual path. To showcase her first two Pucci collections, she opted for original experiential events, the first to be held in Capri, the Mediterranean island that was once a legendary destination of jets in the 1960s, the second at the luxury Swiss ski resort of St. Moritz. Instead, on Thursday night, Miceli put on an intimate performance of the label’s energy. The event is more of a fun get-together of a group of friends than a classic contest-style performance.
The first model appears like a Madonna, in a boat that was gliding slowly beneath the Ponte Vecchio and heading towards a jetty. Clad in an airy, spacious, multicolored caftan made of inflatable parasol, the young woman strode confidently between chairs and low coffee tables. “Caftan is synonymous with Pucci,” Miceli said backstage. She can’t open the show with anything but caftan. This is followed by a range of styles including tops, trousers and miniskirts, all in pure white, occasionally accented with colorful detailing to draw the eye. After that, the audience once again sank into the vortex of colors.
Miceli has skillfully blended Pucci’s anthology of archival prints, refreshing and reinterpreting them in novel styles, such as in black knitted skirts and leggings accented by The jacquard band replicates the hem of some of Pucci’s scarves, or sharp, simple jersey, cotton and silk pieces with the brand’s most recognizable patterns, a theme that frequently appears in the Pucci’s collection over the years. Like 1968 Marmo print, featured on laser-treated jeans, or I laugh And fiamme prints from 1970, Girandole since 1966, and famous Pesci (fish), which Miceli has re-introduced with new variations and colors.
The look is designed for the beach, and goes well with any outfit, from schoolgirls in socks and miniskirts to tomboys in youth outfits with water bottles, rockers in bomber jackets and colored skirts. orange, and chic style. , a chic young lady in a white lace blouse and a black coat studded with white sequins, not to mention all those who enjoy taking a dip in the sea.
The marine world is the main inspiration for Pucci’s colorful collection, which includes 40 styles and types of beachwear, including swimwear, caftan, light flowing silk skirts, tight jumpsuits and jumpsuits. and many other things. The show ended with a series of jumpsuits with psychedelic patterns that hugged the body from head to toe, like a diver’s wetsuit.
Of course, there are plenty of accessories, such as ultra-luxury pool noodles decorated with Pucci prints, maxi beach bags, and cloche hats with a pair of sunglasses on the brim, the better for looking out. The same sense of playfulness is expressed in the ‘Puccinella’ wicker basket decorated with sequin eyes and mouth in the shape of silk bikinis.
“After the beach, the girls are flying to the moon,” quipped a relaxed Miceli backstage after the show. Pucci’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is called ‘Initial EP’ and will be available in stores from May 5. The collection is also inspired by NASA’s 1971 space mission logo, created by NASA. Emilio Pucci designed for the Apollo 15 crew. “Spatial reference is a new addition to the label vocabulary. I used it to explore the idea of air. We worked primarily with gold foil laminated silk, to achieve the iridescent metallic effect, and with Ristop fabric with a matte finish,” says Miceli. FashionNetwork.com.
The result is an unexpected range of costumes made of this shiny, wrinkled material, like chocolate wrappers or survival blankets that migrants rescued from shipwrecks are wrapped up in, and Miceli used them to create round miniskirts, hooded windbreakers, and sparkly coats. -and-suit pants for astronauts.
After the show, everyone partyed until dawn, to the sound of upbeat music in a happy carefree atmosphere.
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