Fashion

New villa headquarters, luxury collection


Maison Margiela unveiled its new headquarters in Paris on Sunday night and talked about an upgrade. John Galliano celebrated his transformation with his latest collection – a luxuriously deconstructed homage to the Queen of Punk, Jordanwho passed last year.

Previously, Margiela’s historic home was a dilapidated old school in the funky 11th district. Its headquarters are now a splendid Hausmannian building on the Place des États Unis, in the golden 16th arrondissement. The building, the former headquarters of Pernod Ricardlocated on the square from baccarat cardsFrance’s most prestigious glassmaker. A colossal bronze statue of George Washington stands just down the boulevard.

Maison Margiela – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Menswear – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

The move tripled the area of ​​Margiela’s headquarters to 7,000 square meters, enough room for 220 employees. It will help drive future growth and is part of an annual capital investment of around 20 million euros.

Upholding the custom of the founder, the “invisible designer” Martin Margiela, Galliano did not go to the palace. He totally deserves one for the staged, slightly curious, women’s ready-to-wear collection that is the final event of the menswear season in Paris.

There are no program notes and no way to question the designer, but the references are clear to Jordan Mooney, the vaunted Queen of Punk who passed away in April 2022.

From the ruffled hair or the black graphic designs on the face, to the half-calf cut mesh stockings; Underpants are worn as minis and eccentric hats with cocardes, Jordan’s influence is obvious.

Though Galliano took it all to a new place with great inside and out trenches; giant A-line jacket in bulging plaid; Very impressive bra and tulle cocktail.

He also showcased some great Macs and winter coats, thanks to his Pendleton association, and even prominently stitched the brand’s American label on the outside of some of the styles.

Before the show, Renzo RossoItalian fashion billionaire whose empire covers Diesel oil and famous indie fashion brands like Margiela, mani, Jil Sanders and Viktor & Rolfwas in a lively mood.

“I will be honest, we really wanted to stay in grade 11 in our old school for emotional reasons. But they won’t sell us the building, and there’s very little major architecture in that part of town. So we moved here and it’s already looking pretty good,” said Renzo excitedly over a glass of Laurent Perrier champagne.

Maison Margiela – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Menswear – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

To promote mobility, the basement sewing workshop has been transformed into an art installation with cinema chairs; show video programs; mannequins wearing the current collection and a dilapidated American convertible – with more mannequins – dangling from a wall.

Under CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli, Gianangeli’s business boomed in Margiela as the brand built up its retail network; upgrade existing stores and raise prices higher.

“We’ve tripled our sales in the last three years,” asserts Gianangeli, looking dapper in a sleek, button-down double-breasted suit finished with a small version of the four-piece logo. Margiela’s signature stitch.

People sometimes forget that in addition to having an incredibly rich imagination, Galliano can also be a commercial designer. By carefully distilling John’s fantasies, avant-garde theatrical style and a deconstructed version of Margiela’s conceptual DNA, the Italian managers have pushed annual sales to almost 400 million euros.

That is quite an impressive achievement. Just celebrated the grand opening of the new headquarters this evening, with a cocktail after the show on the rooftop garden with stunning views of the Eiffel Tower.

It’s just a pity that John can’t go out and enjoy a drink or two.

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