Fashion

Jan Jan Van Essche launches beautiful catwalk at Pitti


Some designers come to Pitti as a dedication, others as a discovery. But Jan Van Essche triumphed on Wednesday’s catwalk debut with a stunning performance staged in Renaissance magnificence in Florence.

Jan Jan Van Essche Fall/Winter 2023 collection in Florence – Courtesy

A performance that resembles a catwalk performance, ending with a ballet by choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, a Belgian of Moroccan descent known for her combination of martial arts and dance moves. experiment.

Called ‘Rite’, this fall/winter 2023 unisex collection resonates on so many levels – styling, innovative materials, textures and, above all, attitude.

“We are so grateful to be here. It’s been an honor to be invited to Pitti, and it’s a great place for me to finally make my runway debut,” smiled Van Essche, born in Belgium and living in Antwerp.

His key outfit is a poncho/cloak, which comes in many shapes; Elephant cutout and finished with side buttons and flap pocket. All embody Jan’s novels in nomadic luxury in a staged performance inside a looming domed hall known as the Cappella degli Ubriachi in the basilica complex of Santa Maria Novella. .

The designer has gone quite far to get his fabrics, most of which are of Japanese origin. Most striking is the shibori plaid range of woolen garments, hand-dyed by expert masters, adding subtle depth to the collection.

The “hands” of many materials are crudely hewn but also great, partly explained by another distant source; yak wool comes from Mongolia.

Jan Jan Van Essche Fall/Winter 2023 collection in Florence – Courtesy

In another unlikely move, he cleverly incorporated bincho tan-dyed cotton, made by combining coffee and ink, which has created a wonderful fade look for many. item.

Van Essche, who creates all of his own models, began working on the collection before traveling to Florence in search of a suitable location.

“But when I saw this place, it gave me goosebumps. So during the editing process, I highlighted some of the perfect colors and shades for this place,” he says. FashionNetwork.com.

Born in Antwerp to a pharmacist father and teacher mother, Van Essche graduated from the city’s famous fashion university in 2003. After a short stint working for Dries Van Noten, he founded his own brand 12 years ago and has quietly built a reputation as a new voice in the fashion industry. Top notch with today’s very special program.

“I am not a man of words, but of feelings. And I hope this Rite, inspired by Pina Bausch’s rite of springwill make the audience make some conversions in their mind,” said Jan Jan, a gentle figure with long, ankle-length locks.

The Van Essche mode manages to be both utilitarian and noble, creating jumpsuits, cut with attractive built-in waistcoats or oversized jackets with flared collars.

Jan Jan Van Essche Fall/Winter 2023 collection in Florence – Courtesy

Though perhaps his most impressive skill is blending industrial ideas – like some sensational ponchos, trousers and raincoats in waxed cotton – with ultra-traditional. He worked with a weaver partner, a dashing craftsman named Lamine Diouf, using a loom he found at a thrift store, to create a series of plaid and doorway panels. Bright “high-fashion” windows are often found on tunics and dusters. Diouf took the final stretch in one of them with great pride.

Jan Jan heads north to Vienna to buy some cool cloche hats from Austrian Werkstätte Mühlbauer and again to Japan to buy brown leather boots custom-made by duo Petrosolaum, Ryo and Sotaro Ogino.

His casting was comprehensive and daring, all of which ended the performance by entering the basilica’s magical corridors where the cast posed on blocks, as a Japanese drummer beat Impressive tattoo.

“Yesterday, was a beautiful day, when everything was in order. We always say we’ll do our first gig when the time is right. It feels right now,” Jan Jan beamed.

Talk about a great runway launch.

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