Is Revolution’s InstaGLO Smart Toaster Worth $399?

As part of Cooking week, we set out to test some of the most relevant (and in some cases, ridiculous) kitchen appliances we could find. We want to know if these impressive looking devices really do what they claim and if they are worth the money. These are our findings.

Some devices, through their longevity, ubiquity, market saturation, and the terrifying power of economies of scale, have become essentially unalterable. Among these is the humble toaster – a product that has been 130 years since its invention so thoroughly standardized and so affordable that most consumers can afford it. It’s probably impossible to know the brand of what’s on their kitchen counter. They all do the same thing (turn bread into crusty bread) and they’re all somewhere in the $30 neighborhood.

Does such a device really need improvement? The team at Revolution clearly believe so or someone thinks they won’t spend the time and money on development Smart Toaster InstaGLO R270.

In addition, the InstaGLO’s distinctly bright touchscreen has several settings for the desired baking level based on different breads (sourdough, multigrain, bagels, etc.) or ready states. variety of breads (fresh, frozen, reheated.) Then again, my exact same $30 Cuisinart. And in defense of the cheaper option, I’m comfortable and able to take that toaster apart and replace anything that’s broken while InstaGLO offers an insurmountable mystery of intricacies. technique is not required.

The most important of these is perhaps the most obvious feature in use: there’s no AKA lever, the sticky plastic tab you push down to send the bread into its miniature oven. Tapping ‘BEGIN’ on the front plate will automatically lower the bread gently, and soon the same mechanism will push the bread back to a comfortable picking height, “so you never have to reach into the machine. bake bread with a fork.” So does Revolution’s marketing copy. Getting hot food from the toaster has never been an obstacle for me – maybe I’m just built differently! – but that’s an easily solved problem with wooden toast clips, which can cost around $5. Or leftover chopsticks, free of charge. Or just allow some time for the toast to cool to a handleable temperature. Also free. (I don’t recommend plugging a metal fork into electrical equipment.)

Of course if moving carbohydrates up and down a few inches is its only selling point, the InstaGLO will be a transparent racket. No, the most stated innovation is faster heating, which Revolution claims is “tearing” the bread rather than drying it – crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, or so I say. While it is certainly possible to pass a slice of frozen country wheat through the Maillard reaction slightly faster, whatever promise of a softer interior has been made either unfulfilled or undeveloped. appeared by my mouth stuffed with toast. And if a few hundred dollars of unrealized toasting dreams have left you with a hole, maybe try one of the steam-based varieties that have been (are?) popular in Japan. Never tried it, but I hear good things.

It is possible – maybe even – that there are more discerning toast connoisseurs who would notice, appreciate, and feel comfortable paying a premium for that experience. The time saved is basically unimportant to me, as I usually spend my time cooking bread for my cats, making tea, or whatever else needs to be done in the morning. If money is no object and you completely yes For a slice of crisps between your morning spin class and the 9 a.m. executive meeting, sure, do what makes you happy. But that faster baking time also represents a major shortcoming when it comes to InstaGLO accessories. (Yes, now there’s the dongle. For a toaster. We live in bold and unprecedented times.)

For an incredible $80, you can buy one separately Miniature Panini press – another kitchen appliance that can be had for $30 to $40 from any no-name manufacturer. Despite the two toaster slots, the InstaGlo Panini Press only works on the right-hand side, and in fact, smoothing the bread into a shape almost like a Panini is better than actually cooking one. bread. After several tries using fresh and frozen bread, lightly oiling the inside of the press (or not), each time I got disappointing results. Not only did the outside not achieve the crispiness one would expect with a pressed sandwich, I suspect the faster cooking time was to blame for the cheese not melting. At all. I’ve given this thing the easy task of thinly sliced ​​mozzarella, low in moisture, and it just doesn’t hold up.

Notably, InstaGLO Panini Press is small. There needs to be some sort of bun to fit the supermarket-style squares inside. And while I tend to follow the Alton Brown axiom of never buying a unitasker for my (small, already cramped) kitchen, a Panini press is a real – or hell, even a one of those things by George Foreman – feel free to fit slices from the center of the fence (as god intended) or half a loaf (if you’re in a desperate situation. I’m not here to rate that.) And it should be mentioned, this issue isn’t limited to the Panini supplement either. As with any low-cost toaster, longer slices will require flipping, somewhat undermining Revolution’s promise of “no need to bake twice”.

The Heating price ($30) sits on top of the unit and, although the entire toaster is capable of toasting bread for varying lengths of time, the rack simply doesn’t have any options. It does its job, and if your pastry or whatever isn’t warm enough, re-cycle or dispose of it. I tested this with a slice of banana bread that I made a few days earlier. The outside facing the heating elements isn’t even warm enough to melt the butter; The top is room temperature.

Should you buy a fancy toaster? Damn, we might be heading into another big recession, but who am I to tell you what to do with your money. And this model’s surprisingly bright touchscreen (best I can say never turns off) makes for good nighttime lighting if you’re trying to find the bathroom at 3am. Despite the bold claims, there is little revolutionary about InstaGLO.