How Zambia’s Margret Chola became a fashion icon

A grandmother in rural Zambia has become a style icon and online sensation after agreeing to try on and swap outfits with her fashionista granddaughter.

Margret Chola, in her 80s, is known around the world as “Legendary Glamma” – and adored by her 225,000 Instagram followers for her striking and playful fashion photos.

“I feel different, I feel new and alive in these clothes, in a way I’ve never felt before,” Ms Chola told the BBC. “I feel like I can conquer the world!”

The biweekly Granny Series was created in 2023 by her niece Diana Kaumba, a stylist based in New York City.

She came up with the idea while visiting Zambia to mark the second anniversary of her father’s death – who she said inspired her passion for fashion because he was always well-dressed.

During that visit, Ms. Kaumba didn’t wear all of her carefully selected outfits, so she asked her grandmother – or “Mbuya” in Bemba – if she wanted to try them on.

“I wasn’t doing anything at the time so I just said: ‘Okay. If that’s what you want then go for it – why not?'” Ms Chola said.

“You will miss me when I die and at least this way you will remember me.”

Ms. Kaumba wore Mbuya’s shirt and a “chitenge” – a patterned piece of cloth wrapped around her waist. And Mbuya’s first outfit was a silver ensemble.

“I thought it would be great if Mbuya wore high-fashion clothes and then photographed her in her natural habitat,” Ms Kaumba told the BBC.

That natural habitat is a farm in the village of 10 Miles, just north of the Zambian capital Lusaka.

Often, Ms. Chola is photographed looking glamorous – often sitting in an elegant wooden chair or lounging on a leather sofa.

In the background are exposed brick buildings with corrugated iron roofs, plowed fields, mango trees and corn.

“I was very nervous when I posted the first photo. I left my phone on for 10 minutes and in those 10 minutes there were 1,000 likes,” Ms. Kaumba said.

“My mind was blown. The comments flooded in and people asked for more.”

It was in April 2024 that the Granny Series really took off – after Ms. Kaumba posted a series of photos of her grandmother in a red Adidas dress, several chunky gold necklaces and a sparkly tiara.

“I was surprised to learn that so many people around the world love me,” Chola said. She doesn’t know her exact age because she doesn’t have a birth certificate.

“I didn’t know I could make such a big impact at this age.”

Ms. Chola posed in clothes that had a vibrant mix of colors, patterns and designs.

From a green American football jersey, paired with a red ruffled skirt-style skirt – the colors of the Zambian flag to pay homage to 60 years of independence.

The top features blue, black and green sequins, complete with a gold snake necklace and bracelet.

And Mbuya’s favorite item – jeans, a T-shirt with her picture on the front and a blonde wig.

“I had never worn jeans or a wig before – so I was happy and danced.”

Ms Kaumba, who has worked as a stylist since 2012, said her grandmother had “courage, grace – and turned heads”.

All looks reflect her maximalist-chic aesthetic – celebrating the joys of excess, eclectic, big and bold combinations, as well as clashing patterns and colors .

At the heart of it all are eye-catching accessories – bold sunglasses, oversized hats, necklaces, bracelets, pendants, rings, gloves, handbags, blonde wigs, tiaras.

That influence came directly from her grandmother, who “was always a lover of pearls and bracelets.”

In a particularly fun scene called GOAT – short for greatest of all time – Miss Chola appears with a goat – decorated with Mbuya’s beloved pearls.

Other accessories also reflect the Chola’s personality and story.

In some photos, Mbuya is holding her beloved radio, which she carries all day and goes to bed with.

Or she’s holding an “ibende” – a long wooden stick that over the years she has used to pound millet, cassava or corn.

She is smoking a pipe or holding a metal cup filled with tea, and hanging over the edge of the armrest is a “mbaula” or charcoal stove that Zambians often use for cooking – especially now that the country is facing serious power cuts.

Ms Kaumba hopes that the Granny Series will highlight that older people still have much to offer – and that creating memories together is an important way to “leave a footprint for the next generation”.

“Don’t push them away, love them like that until the end because remember that one day we will be just like them.”

Thanks to Mbuya’s photo shoots, Ms Kaumba was hired by her four nieces to style their grandmothers – who range in age from 70 to 96.

Ms. Chola hopes that the Granny Series will inspire people to “live their lives and not worry about being judged by society.”

She urged people to “always forgive yourself for any mistakes you’ve made. You can never change your past – but you can change your future.”

The photo shoots brought her granddaughter and grandmother closer together – and through their special relationship, Mrs Kaumba learned more about her difficult daily life in Mbuya.

Ms. Chola was raised by her grandparents, went to school until she was 12 or 13 years old, then for economic reasons was forced to marry a man in his 30s.

She had three children, became a heavy drinker, and eventually escaped the marriage.

That trauma still haunts her – but her sudden global fame has given her a new lease of life.

“Now I can wake up with the intention of knowing that people around the world love to see me,” Chola said.

Penny Dale is a freelance journalist, podcaster and documentary producer based in London.